Supplies:
1"x2" galvanized wire
1/2"x1" wire
J-Clips
J-Clip Pliers
Wire Cutters
Bolt Snap
Step 1:
Roll out the wire. It helps to have someone stand on the end while you unroll to flatten the wire.
Step 2:
Measure twice, cut once. Cut your sections of the cage.
Single Rabbit Cages:
Cut four panels that are 30"x18" out of the 1"x2" wire. Alternatively, you can cut one section for the sides that is 120"x18".
Then cut one panel for the top ceiling that is 30"x30".
Finally, cut a panel for the floor out of the 1/2"x1" wire that is 30"x30"
Doe Cages:
Cut two panels that are 30"x18" and two panels that are 36"x18". Alternatively, you can cut one section for the sides that is 120'X18'.
Then, cut one panel for the floor and ceiling that is 30"x36" and a panel for the floor out of the 1/2"x1" wire that is 30"x36".
**When we first made these cages, we dremeled the ends of the wite to keep them from being sharp. Now, we leave a bit of wire when we cut the sections so we can use pliers to fold the wires back on themselves. This approach takes less time and is more effective.
Step 3:
Clip the sections together with the J-Clips using the J-Clip pliers. If you cut four sidewalls, you will attach them all together in a square and then attach the top and bottom. If you cut one section for the sidewalls, you will bend the sections at the corners (measure 30" and then bend, then 36", then 30") by placing the wire on the ground and then a wood 2x4 and bend the wire at a 90-degree angle. Repeat for each corner and fasten together at the end using J-Clips. Then, attach the top and bottom.
Step 4:
Cut a door. Measure a 12" x 12" hole in the front panel for the door, allowing 2" of cage wire at the bottom and 4" at the top. If this is a doe cage, make sure this is large enough to slide in your nest box. Cut the door opening. Then, measure a piece of 1"x2" wire that is 14"Wx13"T. Position the door to the inside of the opening so that it opens to the inside with the 14" length is side-to-side and the 13" length is top-to-bottom. Overlap the sides by 1" each and the bottom by 1". Attach the door at the top with J-Clips. Some people have the door open to the outside and others have the door swing open to the side. We opt to have ours open in so that if we forget to secure a door (it's happened once) it is unlikely the rabbit can push its way out because they will push the door closed instead of open.
Step 5:
If this is a doe cage, add a 4" strip of 1/2" x 1" baby saver wire around the bottom perimeter of the cage. This will prevent any babies from making their way to the edge of the cage and slipping out (as shown below).
Step 6:
If you plan to use J-Feeders (we use and recommend them), now is the time to figure out where you want to hang those. Position the J-Feeder 2" above the cage floor on the front opposite the cage door. Cut an opening 2" tall and wide enough to accomodate your feeder. We use 5-1/2" feeders for single rabbits and 11-1/2" feeders for does with babies. Attach the J-Feeder to the outside of the cage.
Step 7:
Use a clip to secure the cage door at the bottom (we use bolt snaps or spring latches).
Comments